Tuesday, 2 June 2009
At 11.30 on Monday 1 June we left by Perama mini bus for Lovina. On arrival the Perama staff gave us a simple rice based lunch and persuaded some of us to stay in their bungalows and simple rooms, rather than searching around. We ended up with a large clean bungalow with hot and cold shower and air-con for 10$ for two nights including breakfast, an absolutely brilliant choice for quite different reasons as it turned out.
As we walked down the only road to the village 200 metres away we got into conversation with the owner of a of a very small restaurant, which didn't even get a mention in the LP, he showed us a book full of recommendation, told us he was the best cook in Lovina so convincingly that we advance paid to enable him to buy some fresh Snapper fish for BBQ, and guarantee our trade.
From there we walked down a few more metres to the black sand beach and made our way along with difficulty because of the number of dugout fishing boats with bamboo pole outriggers, one per each house cheek by jowl along the beach. We were to discover later that this went on all the way to the more central location of Lovina. Giving up our attempt we made our way back by footpaths when we came across a newly dug out hull and whilst we were looking the builder appeared, who spoke fairly good English even though he had never learned it at school. The hull was essentially finished, seven metres long and 700mm high, a huge trunk. He talked of the cost and said that depended on how close to a road the tree had been before felling. It had been oiled and was now being left to season for a month, before being completed with outriggers and a mounting for the long tailed engine.
Even more interestingly he told us he was member of a group of eight boats who fished together with a large 200metre long and 70metre deep net. They drew the net into a circle around a permanently moored Kontiki raft with a 1000 metre anchor.made of bamboo poles and brushwood sail. Then they used powerful lights on all 8 boats to attract the fish. He said the best time was new Moon as the technique was less effective in strong moonlight. Finally the catch was landed and put into large baskets each holding 30kg of fish, mostly mackerel at present, and sold for use in nearby Singaraja, Bali's second biggest city, for 20$. On a good day they would get 100 such baskets to sell.
The next day we went out with him at 6am when he supplied a fine breakfast of tea and lots of fried bananas,some of which he later used for bait in order to attract the fish. Launching the bamboo outrigger 10 mins later to see the sunrise, spectacular but
we had not risked taking the camera!, to see the dolphins, the local attraction, about ten boats from the centre of Lovina village called Kalibukbuk, all tourists in life jackets, pursued a school but we soon left them to it and then left the crowd for a reef where I snorkeled in a sea full of coloured fish with very brilliant blue ones on the bottom. At the end he hauled me back on board with a rope loop for my feet. For all of this we paid just 15$.
Putu Merte
Desa Anturan
BR Labak Pantai
Bali
'Putu Boat Hire and Dolphin'
'Pishing Sailing and Senorkelling'
Anturan, first narrow road back, parallel to shore, look for coconut tree and green garage door
As we walked down the only road to the village 200 metres away we got into conversation with the owner of a of a very small restaurant, which didn't even get a mention in the LP, he showed us a book full of recommendation, told us he was the best cook in Lovina so convincingly that we advance paid to enable him to buy some fresh Snapper fish for BBQ, and guarantee our trade.
From there we walked down a few more metres to the black sand beach and made our way along with difficulty because of the number of dugout fishing boats with bamboo pole outriggers, one per each house cheek by jowl along the beach. We were to discover later that this went on all the way to the more central location of Lovina. Giving up our attempt we made our way back by footpaths when we came across a newly dug out hull and whilst we were looking the builder appeared, who spoke fairly good English even though he had never learned it at school. The hull was essentially finished, seven metres long and 700mm high, a huge trunk. He talked of the cost and said that depended on how close to a road the tree had been before felling. It had been oiled and was now being left to season for a month, before being completed with outriggers and a mounting for the long tailed engine.
Even more interestingly he told us he was member of a group of eight boats who fished together with a large 200metre long and 70metre deep net. They drew the net into a circle around a permanently moored Kontiki raft with a 1000 metre anchor.made of bamboo poles and brushwood sail. Then they used powerful lights on all 8 boats to attract the fish. He said the best time was new Moon as the technique was less effective in strong moonlight. Finally the catch was landed and put into large baskets each holding 30kg of fish, mostly mackerel at present, and sold for use in nearby Singaraja, Bali's second biggest city, for 20$. On a good day they would get 100 such baskets to sell.
The next day we went out with him at 6am when he supplied a fine breakfast of tea and lots of fried bananas,some of which he later used for bait in order to attract the fish. Launching the bamboo outrigger 10 mins later to see the sunrise, spectacular butwe had not risked taking the camera!, to see the dolphins, the local attraction, about ten boats from the centre of Lovina village called Kalibukbuk, all tourists in life jackets, pursued a school but we soon left them to it and then left the crowd for a reef where I snorkeled in a sea full of coloured fish with very brilliant blue ones on the bottom. At the end he hauled me back on board with a rope loop for my feet. For all of this we paid just 15$.
Putu Merte
Desa Anturan
BR Labak Pantai
Bali
'Putu Boat Hire and Dolphin'
'Pishing Sailing and Senorkelling'
Anturan, first narrow road back, parallel to shore, look for coconut tree and green garage door
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